A Voyage to the East Indies in the Ship Duke of Grafton

"A Voyage to the East Indies in the Ship Duke of Grafton" is an eighteenth century manuscript detailing the 1779-81 voyage of the Duke of Grafton from Britain to India and back again. This manuscript includes detailed descriptions of Madeira, Gorée, Cape Town, Madras, Bombay, Surat, St. Helena, and the perils of life at sea. This manuscript's provenance and authorship are unknown; Lewis & Clark acquired this manuscript from Bernard Quaritch Ltd. in 2017. More materials relating to the 1779-81 voyage of the Duke of Grafton can be found in the India Office Records and Private Papers collection at the British Library. A "flip book" version of this collection is available here.

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A Voyage to the East Indies: Page 99

we steer’d our Course for England under the Direction of Captn. Abercrombie of the Walpole who being the oldest Captain, was Commodore of the Fleet. Before we sail’d, there were several Accounts of several french Men of War being in the Bay, but these prov’d only Inventions to enhance the Premium for Insurance, which was twenty five Guineas when we left Calcutta. The Captains had private Instructions given them to open in the Latitude 19Nº Fortunately our Ship sail’d much better than she did outward bound, the Commodore being the heaviest sailor of the Four. I say fortunately for we had not occasion to crowd so much sail, wch would have distress’d us as the ship was badly Man’d, having but few Europeans on board & a Number of Lascars who were good for Nothing. We made a very great Passage, till we came off the Cape which we had orders to come no nearer to than the Latitude of 40Sº because of the french Cruizers, but a Gale of Wind coming on from the N.W. prevented our getting round the Cape so soon as we had reason to expect it being Summer Time . . When it first came on to blow, the Commodore laid his Ship to, under bare Poles, but the other ships were under a Mainsail, and Main or Mizen Stay Sail which they were oblig’d to keep out to prevent their rowling so violently as to carry any thing away. [end page 99]

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only 200£ for his Passage, and that his Wife of whom he was extremely fond, and is extravagantly so now, were both with him in his Ship, for these Reasons he had Hopes of being sent on a profitable Country Voyage. But he found that the Advancement to power, had evaporated every Grain of sentiment from his Breast, and instead of serving, he seem’d to wish to distress him. Hastings is confess’d to be a Man of great Abilities with respect to the Government of India. But his engaging in a War with the Maratta’s is not a Proof of it, which has drain’d their Treasures, and destroy’d their Army. He is well vers’d in the Language cunning and duplicity of the Indian People, knows the Extent, and they say the true Interest of the Country . . .

The homeward bound Fleet consisted of the Walpole, Grafton, True Briton, and Fox, who all receiv’d orders to sail, on the 25th of November, but the Walpole having a Quantity of their Saltpetre dissolv’d by the Water in the hold, was obliged to be unloaded, & take a fresh Quantity of Saltpetre in, this prolong’d our Stay till the 13th of December when each ship having her Pilot on board, we got under Way, & on the 15th being clear of the sands the Pilots left us, and [end page 98]

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principally of white Goods, Rare Silk, Callicoes, Saltpetre & Borax the Produce of the Country. Every kind of Goods finds a Markett in the River Ugli, but it makes much against the wellfare of the Place, as most of the ships when they have dispos’d of their Cargoes, are paid in Money, and will take no Bengal Goods in Exchange but a little Rice. They have lately planted Indigo, in this Country and entertain the greatest Hopes of its success. Since the Company have alter’d the Mode of Government in Bengal, (establishing a supreme Council from Europe, and giving only the commercial Business into the Hands of their long servants in India thereby constituting a Board of Trade consisting of twelve Persons) none of their Affairs have flourish’d, for there are continual Animosities between the two Boards. To which Contention Captn. Bull became a victim, being obliged to get his Ship ready by an order of the supreme Council to sail with the other ships. This they did to distress the Board of Trade, imagining that the Time would be too short for them to get the Goods ready and send them down, or for the ship to take them in. Both of which however was effected. Captn. Bull had the greatest Hopes that as Mr Hastings had in a former voyage come out to India, when he was needy and could afford to pay [end page 97]

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Threats and tell you, you dare not strike him. Upon receiving the most trifling Blow they run to the Judges, make their Complaint, and ☞ are redress’d. . . . The english Territories extend to the Borders of the Kingdom of Thibet to the distance of 1,200 Miles. Where Troops are constantly kept for Collecting the Revenue (which Amounts in all the Provinces to £3,000,000H.) and are reliev’d once in two Years. In this Extent of Country are many Towns & Chiefships Where Gentlemen high in the Service reside. Of these are Patna, Dacca, Cossinbazar, Luckypore, Luckinhow, Benares etc. Where they live like Petty Princes and realize the Fortunes of Nabobs. The luxurious & magnificent Method of living here, detains Gentlemen many Years longer in the Country; than they otherwise would have Occasion for; The Riches of this Part of India are so immense, as to become proverbial, yet even here, if Interest is wanting, a Man may toil all his Life Time & be poor at last. A Writer when he lands in the Country plunged himself into the common Course of Extravagance, & runs himself so far in Debt as requires the good Fortune of several years to discharges. Artificers & Artists of all kinds succeed well in Calcutta. It is the finest Field in the world for a Man with Abilities and A little Interest … The Trade of Bengal consists [end page 96]

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find it their Interest to be so; but where no Gain is expected, imperious and Cruel. The Father points out to the son, how to impose upon or overreach another. The son improving by the documents of his Instructor, makes those sentiments so early inculcated, his principal study. . Whether by inherent Principle or the effect of subjugation is a doubt, but they are a passionless sort of People, incapable of Improvement beyond the Line of Cunning, filthy in their Mode of Living, obscene in their Discourse, wanton in their Pleasures; To Delicacy they are Strangers; of moral virtues they possess none. They have no word in their Language answering to the Name of Gratitude, nor did ever a Heart amongst them feel such an Emotion. Their Religion tho’ perhaps the strictest in the world, serves like many others but as a kind of Mask for many crying Enormities; and their Zeal and Infatuation so much talk’d off, little more than Artifice and Dissimulation. Their Religion countenances all the vices they are guilty of, and even impels them to deceive. Since the arrival of the Judges in Bengal which Circumstance plac’d the two different People on a Levell, The black Fellows have assum’d an Air of Importance, greater than before, (and Sorry am I to say it,) the wonderful Effects of all pow’rful Gold, have work’d Miracles in their Favour. A servant, perhaps the vilest Dog upon Earth will retort your [end page 95]

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The Character the English Inhabitants of Calcutta bear, is that of a liberal and generous People. The more confin’d Settlements of Madras or Bombay, have not a Breath of Generosity betwixt them. At either of those Places, the Wellfare of a Man, procures him Enemies who envious of the Happiness of another, eneavour to prejudice him in the Opinion of the World. If Fortune takes an adverse Turn, they shut their Purse Strings in the Hour of Distress, & endeavour effectually to compleat his Ruin. But at Calcutta, a Man of Character’s Wants are no sooner known than reliev’d. Money seems to be their least Consideration. They give most elegant Entertainments, brilliant Balls, and the same Harmony and Decorum prevails as in the first City in Europe. A Man there does not hesitate or consider if it is his Interest to assist another; Other, and more generous Motives induce him; he wishes to be accessary to the Happiness of his Friend. Indeed their Disregard of Money, seems to suffer them to be impos’d upon, by the villainous black fellows, who negotiate their Affairs. Whatever commendable can be said of the English at Calcutta is counterpoisd by the Cunning and Duplicity of the black Inhabitants, Train’d up from their Infancy to Fraud, low Cunning and Artifice, they make it their Study to deceive, and are alone emulous amongst themselves in that Point. Submissive to the lowest degree, where they [end page 94]

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are ten or twelve Inches Long. Birds of Prey of several species are found here, and are very usefull for the Purposes before mention’d. Water Fowl are in Amazing Plenty. They will shoot forty Brace of wild Ducks or Teal in a Day. The black Fellows have a curious, yet simple Method of catching them. They go into the Lake where the Ducks are with an earthen Pott on their Heads, having holes in it for the convenience of sight and air. They walk along with their Heads above water till they go into the middle of a Flock and the Birds taking it really for a Pot of which there are many floating on the Lake, suffer themselves to be laid hold of by the Legs & hawl’d down one after the Other till the Man’s Hands are full. The Vegetable World abounds with a great vanity of Plants etc., unknown to other Climates, at the same Time that it produces all the known Fruits, Plants & Flowers. Inhabitants of the Country discover many powerful Medicines amongst them, and their Effect is often admirably beneficial, tho’ administer’d by People, totally unacquainted with the Laws of Physic or Nature. They are like the old women in England, who having been long possess’d of a Recipe for any Disease, administer it in all its Stages, without the least attention to the Symptoms of the Disease, and assign no other Reason for doing so, than that their Grandmothers did so too Yet they sometimes produce wonderful Cures . . . . . . . . [end page 93]

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and rips up the Belly of the unfortunately fall’n Rider. Leopards are plenty in this Country and furious if attack’d. Elephants are useful Animals to the Country Powers, but we see few of them employ’d by the English. All heavy Carriages are drawn by Bullocks or Buffaloes, which last are in great plenty in this Country, very large, wild & mischievous. . The Horses at Calcutta are beautiful Creatures, but very mettlesome. They do excellently for Coaches Phaetons etc. . . . Dogs are in great Numbers but good for Nothing but to assist in carrying away Flesh and Nastiness left in the Streets in the Night, and a Parcel of them have been known to attack People and kill them. There are Foxes and Jackalls in this Country in Prodigious Numbers, the latter perform the same Office as the Dogs. The lesser Quadrupeds found in other Countries are to be met with in Bengal, there being such vast Tracks of Land, uncultivated, and otherwise uninhabited. . . There is a great Vanity of Snakes and Serpents, and some exceedingly venomous, but I had not Time to enquire sufficiently minute into their Names, and Species to give a just Account of them. Alligators frequent all the Rivers and Creeks about the Country Scorpions about in Calcutta and Centipeds some of which [end page 92]

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is now at Calcutta in the Possession of Mr Hastings. The royal Tiger has a plentiful Progeny in Bengal, and the neighbouring Provinces they conceal themselves in thick Cover, and frequently destroy Men. The Tiger when he espies a Man roars terribly, which strikes such a panic on the Mind of the unhappy Wretch, that he instantly becomes swallowed up in Horror. It is suppos’d to be the most hideous Knell in Nature; then springing on the Back of his Prey, the furious Creature with one of his paws, deprives the victim of his senses at one Blow, or if one is not effectual he repeats it. Nor does he attempt to feast on the Body, till depriv’d of all Sensation, & continues roaring till that is effected. . . Wild Boars are in plenty up the Country, and hunting them forms one of their Diversions, tho’ frequently attended with Danger, as is the hunting of Tigers. To hunt the Boar they go in large Parties, well mounted, and arm’d with a Kind of Spear. On Arriving at the Place the Hog frequents, a Number of black fellows enter the Cover & by making a hideous Noise, with their Pipes, Drums etc., drive him out, the Horsemen immediately ride after him and wound him with their spears, the Beast finding himself wounded, becomes enraged, & makes furiously at the Horse, & unless he is well broke in, and accustom’d to Hunting will throw him down, which effected the Hog, leaves the Horse, [end page 91]

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thousands. At the Time there is scarcely a Breath of Wind to be perciev'd. Thus the air at Calcutta, blowing on all sides, over Fens, and Marshes, must be constantly unwholesome. Providence has in great Measure provided against the Evil of rotten Fish, Flesh etc. by making the Country abound with Jackalls, Parrear Dogs, Vultures, Kites, Crows etc. The two former of which clear the streets of filth by Night and the latter by day. These are so familiar, that they’ll fly into a House and take Victuals off the Table. . . The Winter Months in England, are the winter Months in Calcutta, and during that season there is not a more delightful Region under Heaven, nor (the Inhabitants say) a more healthy. In December and January the air is exceedingly cool, and even Ice is produced up the Country, but never as I heard at Calcutta. The Earth at this season opens her stores, and produces everything that is produced on the Face of the Globe. Their vegetables approach nearer to those of England in Taste, Colour and Size, then any I saw since I left England. The Country abounds with Wild Beasts of many kinds, some of which attack Men, but seldom unmolested. It has been long imagin’d that no Lions are contain’d in India, but it is now contradicted. At a small Fort lately taken by Captn. Popham a good way up the Country, there were three living ones and the Marks of many others. One of those three [end page 90]

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People, who under the Mask of Neutrality, drain the world of its wealth, & accumulate to themselves an Immensity of Riches, whilst other Kingdoms are wantonly disporting with the Lives and Properties of their Inhabitants. These vessels generally go unarm’d to any Part of the Globe, the Dutch having Artifice enough to extricate themselves from any Kind of difficulty which may happen … After having separated ten days, we had a little Engagement with a small Brig Privateer, which afterwards prov’d to be english. The Captain of her show’d himself that Day to be a brave Man, by engaging a Ship, really of Force much superior to himself (and apparently still greater). She mounted Sixteen, six & four pounders, and carried fifty five Men, to whom, upon seeing us, the Captain remonstrated on the Improbability of Success; but they turning a deaf Ear on his Harangue, he made a courageous resolution to bear down, & if we prov’d an Enemy, take us or sink by our Side … Amid all this Prospect of danger, the daily Confusion which reign’d in the Ship is undescribable. Upon seeing a sail which was generally at Day Light, the Officers Cabins were all knocked down with their Chests, Trunks & Baggage and Hammocks & Cots carried upon Deck. Perhaps by the [end page 9]

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being situated below Calcutta, & has nothing round it which could afford shelter for an Enemy within Gunshot. Connoisseurs in Fortification pronounce it very strong, & the more incurious Eye of a Novice in those Matters would suppose it still stronger. A little below the Fort are Docks for the Construction of Ships, which Art is arriv’d at great Perfection here, tho’ not as at Bombay, for the Masters there are black People, but at Calcutta Europeans. . An immense Track of Land, from the Mouths of the Ganges to a great Distance in the Country lies low, & flat, and at the Time of the Rains & some Months after wears the Appearance of an extensive Marsh or Bog. The Land likewise is universally cover’d with a low kind of Underwood, which affords shelter to an incredible Number of wild Beasts. These Circumstances render it a disagreeable Part of the World. For the excessive Heat of the Sun, occasioning a great Evaporation from the surface of this Land, or rather muddy Swamp, the Air thereby becomes loaded, with putrid & unwholesome Particles, unfit for Respiration. This is felt peculiarly on the Banks of the River which being rais’d, and swell’d during the rainy Season, leaves on its Return to its former Limits, vast Quantities of shiny Mud along the Beach, in which are entangled Fish of various kinds, and in vast Shoals; those rot in a short space, and emit a stench, which has prov’d fatal to [end page 89]

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Calcutta the Capital of the english settlements in India is situated on the Banks of the River Ugli. It is large and populous, containing many good Buildings but so irregularly plac’d, as scarcely to form what properly can be call’d one Street. The Southernmost Parts of the Town contain the Houses of the european Gentlemen, who live here luxuriously and magnificently. About the Middle of the Town stands the old Fort, kept up more for the Purpose of accommodating Invalids than for any military Use. Opposite to the Gate of the Old Fort stands a Monument, to perpetuate the Memory of those unfortunate People, who lost their Lives in the black Hole over whom it is built. The Black Hole is still to be seen. It is one of the Bastions of the old Fort, & any one unacquainted with the Story, would think it impossible to squeeze such a number of Men in it. The Northern Part of the Town is inhabited by a few English in the trading or mechanical Way, Armenians, Portuguese, and Natives of the Country in general who are incredibly numerous. They have several Bazars or Markets in their Part of the Town for all sorts of Goods, which are generally so throng’d as to be almost impassible. Calcutta is said to contain
Fort William is divided from the Town of Calcutta, by a broad Esplanade, is strong and well built. It effectually commands the River [end page 88]

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We sail’d from Madras Roads on the 18th of September, & got a Pilot on board in Balasore Roads on the 6th Day after, who carried us up the River of Bengal as far as Kedgeree & brought us to an anchor. At Kedgeree were lying the Walpole, Fox, True Briton, Duke of Portland & Duke of Kingston Indiamen, with several Dutchmen and country vessels. This River which is an Union of the Ganges & Ugli is at this Place very broad but full of Sands, which frequently shift and change with the Rapidity of the Tides. By the same Cause the Mouth of the River, where it empties itself into the sea, is almost obstructed with Sands and Banks. The two Rivers run in Consort about fifty Miles, to which the Ganges comes from a most distant source, and the Ugli, tho it receives its Name from a Town so call’d about one hundred Miles up the Country thro’ which it flows, comes from near the Kingdom of Thibet. To the Ganges, all the Gentoo Inhabitants of India, pay the greatest adoration. They consider its waters sacred & possess’d of numberless virtues. To it they commit the Bodies of their dying Relations, even before their Senses leave them, laying them on the Beach at the Time of low Water, and when the rises it carries them away. Its Banks are incredibly crouded, for by washing therein, they are absolv’d from their sins recover their Cast if lost & happy are those who die in its Waters [end page 87]

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their going on board Ship) & orders given for more Troops to be rais’d. All the Cash that Could be spared was sent from the Treasury of Bengal, and every Necessary Preparation set on foot to remedy the late Disaster. On S.r Eyre Coote’s Arrival at Madras, he could muster only about 4,000 effective Men. Hyder Aly besieged Arcot, the Capital Town (belonging to the Nabob) in the Carnatic, & took it at least it capitulated, and the Soldiers and Officers amounting only to 300 who had defended the Place six Weeks against 40,000 Men, march’d out with the Honours of War. The Contractor & Ponsonby two East Indiamen then laying in Madras Roads were sent to the Northward for Troops soon after the Defeat of Coln. Baily One of them went to Visegapatnam, where were several Battallions. On the Day of their intended Embarkation, when they were all drawn up, and their Officers at Dinner with the Chief, they mutinied, & on their Officers coming out to see what was the Matter, they fir’d upon them and kill’d several, & wounded the others. They took the chief & other Gentlemen in the civil Line and bound them hand & foot, and releas’d a frenchman, who was a prisoner there, after doing which, they march’d away in triumph & went in Quest of Hyder Ally’s Camp. . [end page 86]

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The Nabob’s second son is his prime Minister, whose Principles are said to be vile and treachourous. A Convincing Proof of this lately appear’d. When Sr Edwd Hughes with the Fleet went into Trinquemalie in the Island of Ceylon, they discover’d an immense Quantity of military Stores for the Equipment of a numerous Body of Horse. On enquiring whose they were, he was answer’d, that they had been collecting several Years for the Nabob of Arcots second son. Not one single Circumstance of those Stores had been mentioned to his Father or the Governor, nor could they be for their use, as the Company have but a very few Horse on the Coast. The general Conjecture is that he meant to secure a party to himself, cut off his Father, and reign Nabob of the Carnatic. The Account of our ill Success on the Coast was immediately dispatch’d to the Governor general, and Council of Bengal, who order’d Sr Eyre Coote to repair immediately to Madras, with all the european Troops, to take on him the Command of the Forces there, suspend Mr Whitehill, and place Mr Smith in the Chair. Which Circumstances took place in a very Short Time after. Mean Time several Battalions of Seapoys were marching round to Madras by Land (as their Religion forbids, [end page 85]

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say 600,000£ and drain’d the Settlement of every Pagoda. Yet this conscientious Man, who once acted in the humble Station of a Waiter at White’s, is made a Baronet. O Tempora! O Mores! The Government is now in the Hands of a Man, whose Name has been long stampt with Infamy. Who knows his Reign will be Short, and is providing for himself and his Creatures with the utmost Rapidity. A Man whose Crimes a Modest Man cannot Mention. Who has combined against his Country (Mr W__ll fitted out the Elizabeth a french ship for the Maurituis, loaded her with Goods & informed her when the Osterly Indiaman would sail, & how she was mann’d. The Osterly was afterwards taken by the Elizabeth in Company with another French ship near the Mossel Bank off the Cape & was carried to the Maurituis. Mr W__ll is said to have cleard 80,000£ by this voyage. For the Truth of this I cannot vouch, but it is publicly asserted at Madras.) Hyder Aly gives out that he does not wish to engage in War with the English, but with the Nabob of Arcot who is under the Protection of the English, and has but few soldiers of his own and these he renders dissaffected to him, by delaying the Payment of their Wages for many Years. Whole Troops deserted from him before the last Engagement, and went over to Hyder. . . . [end page 84]

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General. Pondicherry might have been taken in Six Days. Its Fortifications were not compleat when the english Army sat down before it. And after the Siege, instead of gaining immortal Honour as represented in England, he was laugh’d at & derided by all the Army. In short, no man can be more universally despis’d than this Man who enjoys the Favor of, and receives Honours from his King, and is robbing and ruining his Country. This Man has a Ribband given him and his Name perpetuated by a Title, at a Time when he is a disgrace to the british Annals. These are the Men to whom the Care of Nations is committed & these are the Men, who instead of guarding and defending their Fellow subjects are the first to prey upon them and accumulate a Fortune by their Ruin. . . What a Pity it is that the Government of Madras should be so continually given to Men whose sole Motives are to serve themselves; Who have no views but of accumulating Fortunes, and who feel no regret, for their horrible Oppression of Numberless Families. Strange as this may seem yet true it is, that many successive Governors (Lord Pigot excepted) have entertain’d this Maxim, and this solely. The late Governor Sir T. Rumb_d is a striking Proof of this, he having in the Course of two years, amass’d upwards of 400,000 sterling, nay some [end page 83]

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and Troops, Bengal should remain in our Possession, The possession of the other Settlements would have it in either their Power to take our Ships and stop our Trade. Affairs in India have a bad Appearance, and what is now only apprehended will soon be realized, unless wiser Governors, and greater Generals have the conducting them. The Popular Cry loudly exclaims against Sr. H. M_nr_ They Complain not only of his Stupidity & Ignorance, but hesitate not to criminate him. They accuse him of not having the King or Company’s Interest at Heart, they interpret his sending so small a detachment against Hyder, into motives criminal and treacherous. They assent that the few proceeding Months have been solely occupied by him in purchasing european Bills and Diamonds to remit his Money. That he took the Field without Ammunition or Provisions; that when he heard Baily was departed he fled with the utmost Precipitation towards Madras, gall’d all the way by the Enemy. That he had no Intelligence himself nor would receive any from the other Officers. The wound concerning the Pondicherry Business broke out a fresh. He was again call’d Fool, & Coward, They say that at the Siege of Pondicherry, more money & Time was expend’d than would have taken four such Places, attack’d by an experienc’d [end page 82]

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or four Hundred Sepoys under the Command of Coln. Fletcher. . . . Baily and Fletcher with their little Army, fought desperately, and did Wonders, till two of the Tumbrels of Gunpowder blew up, which put them in a great Confusion, on which Hyder’s Horse rushing in, cut them to Pieces without Mercy. Thus was destroy’d the Flower of their Army, owing to the Obstinacy of an infatuated General; who altho’ a Man of Narrow Abilities, would not receive salutary advice when offer’d him. Fletcher was cut to Pieces, Baily taken Prisoner, & several Captains & subalterns in the King’s & Company’s Service shar’d the same Fates. . This is the greatest Advantage that ever any Country Power obtain’d over the english Troops, & will animate them beyond Measure, for they formerly deem’d us invincible. There were a great Number of French in Hyder’s Army both Officers and Private in whose Views and Interests Hyder greatly joins. Nothing now is wanting on the Coast of Coromandell to drive us from it, but a french fleet superior to ours, so as to prevent any supplies from coming to the Town on the seaside. Whilst Hyder’s numerous Army will prevent all Correspondence in the Country. The Fort itself is exceedingly Strong, impregnable by a Country Power, but they may soon starve themselves into Submission The Consequence of the Loss of Madras, would inevitably be, that of Bengal, and Bombay, [?]rif from its numerous Fortifications [end page 81]

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to an Anchor in Madras Roads on the Morning of the 7th of September. Immediately went on Shore with our Chief Mate who had an Inflammation in his Liver ever since we left Bombay and plac’d him under the care of Dr. Pasley, a very eminent & learned Man. On our Arrival here we were inform’d that Hyder Aly had enter’d the Carnatic with 100,000, Troops well disciplin’d & come almost to the Walls of Madras Sr Hector Munro went out to drive him off, with an Army of 8000 Men, Of which Number 1000 were europeans, Orders were likewise sent for Coln. Cosby to join him with 1000 Men, Coln. Brathwaite from Pondicherry with another Detachment, & Coln. Baily with about 2400 Men & 10 Field Pieces. Which Army join’d together was imagin’d stronger than Hyder’s. Coln. Cosby & Brathwaite join’d a few Days after we arriv’d & the Accounts of Coln. Baily were impatiently expected, which arriv’d on the 14th or 15th and brot. the Melancholy News that Coln. Baily had fall’n in with Hyder within a few Miles of the grand Army. Hyder’s Army consisted of 24,000 Horse, 30,000 Foot & 1,500 Frenchmen with 20 Field Pieces. That Sr Hector Munro, heard the Firing, but would not agree to march to their Relief altho’ Tents were struck and every thing ready but contrary to the advice of those he consulted sent a Detachment of 4 Companies of the 73rd Regt. with three [end page 80]

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such a Position as to prevent us from bringing our Guns to bear upon her. In this Dilemma we had one Circumstance to console ourselves with viz. the having such a Number of Soldiers on board, that would have dealt destruction to a vessel that might have attempted to board us, a Method much depended on by small Privateers The Soldiers were station’d on every Part of the Ship, and if a small vessel appear’d they conceal’d themselves, by lying flat on the Deck till within Musquet Shot, but on the Contrary if a Ship of Force superior to ourselves came in Sight, we station’d the redcoats so that they might be seen at a considerable Distance, hoisted a Man of War’s pendant, and fix’d wooden Guns, so as to make us appear like a fifty Gun Ship. Indeed we cut a very formidable Figure. We parted from the Fleet in the direct Track of the Cruizers, and for several Days after our Separation had very little Wind, and that little, foul; At last a fair and fresh Breeze sprung up, which carried us along briskly. We now daily saw a Number of Vessels, which we brought too, & most of them proved to be dutch. Here we had an Oportunity of observing the cunning & policy of those [end page 8]

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home in another Ship. Mr Hardcastle’s Affair when candidly enquir’d into, will very much against him, but as he landed at Bombay when we pass’d it to go to Surat, he had an Oportunity of spreading reports before Captn. Bull return’d. And had Captn. Bull exerted himself a little more even then, & attended the Trial properly, as his Friends in vain sollicited him to do, I sincerely believe Mr Hardcastle’s suspension would have been confirm’d. Mr Warrington our 5th Mate engaged himself so far in Mr Hardcastle’s Interest, that he ran away from the ship, accompanied by a Midshipman, who were the only Two, whose Evidence appear’d in Favor of Mr Hardcastle. During our laying at Bombay our Armourer died of the Dysentery. And several of our Men ran away, so that we were obliged to get Lascars to assist us in getting the ship round to Bengal, for which Place we sail’d with a Cargo of Cotton on board, having order to touch at Madras to deliver a Packet. We had a leading Wind and made a good Run all down the Coast, till we came abreast of the Friar’s Hood on the Island of Ceylon. Where we were becalm’d four Days. Here we fell in with the Neptune Captn. Wemyss who had sail’d from Bombay twenty four Hours before us. At length a Light Breeze sprung up, and the Neptune being a good sailor left us, & got to Madras one day before us. The Night before we arriv’d at Madras being then only 4 or 5 Leagues below it, there came on a most violent squall, which however happily did us no harm. We came [end page 79]

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with Grain and Timber is all the Country produces. But I believe Pepper is not included in the general Acceptation of the word, Grain, farther to the Southward they make Stockings & almost every Port, has a different Way of manufacturing their Goods. The Portuguese have a fortified Town to the Northward of Bombay call’d Demaun And the french before the breaking out of the War, had a Settlement on this Coast call’d Mahé. The Face of the Country for many Miles is rather flat and has a pretty appearance, but more in land there are many lofty Hills. From Cape Comorin runs a remarkable Ridge of high Mountains call’d the Gatts or Balagate Mountains, which divides this peninsula for many Degrees Northward, and alters the Seasons on either Coast; there when the Monsoon sets in on the Malabar Coast, there is fine Weather on the Coast of Coromandell, et vice versa. It is far from being an unhealthy Coast except at the Time of the Rains, when great Allowances may be made for it. . The Affair betwixt Captn. Bull and Mr Hardcastle, was enquired into at Bombay, by a Committee appointed for that Purpose, when after hearing the Evidence, they agreed that Mr Hardcastle had been culpable, and deserving his Suspension; but the length of Time he had been suspended, they imagin’d a sufficient Punishment. Wherefore he was again restor’d to his Rank, but on petitioning the Governor was permitted to go [end page 78]

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get intoxicated. Small Vessels are built with its Timber, Fans are made with its Leaves, in short no Tree answers so great a Variety of Purposes. This Island is well stock’d with venomous Snakes Scorpions, Centipedes, large venemous Spiders, & a Sharp Tooth’d Animal with its Head like a Hog, & Body like a rat call’d a Bandicoot. they have likewise enormous Toads & other disagreeable Reptiles. Inhospitality holds her highest Court at Bombay, & has Envy, Slander and Malice for her three Favorites. . . The first European Power that possess’d the Coast of Malabar was the Portuguese who first settled at Goa, (which they now hold), but since they have dwindled away to the Insignificant Place they now hold in the system of Merit they have lost many Settlements. The English by possessing Bombay and Surat command the whole Coast. The Portuguese tho’ unable to prevent their Settlements from falling into the hands of Country Powers, and thereby not only injuring themselves, but other european Powers likewise and that very materially, look nevertheless with an insidious Eye on the English, who have rescued, and retain several of them. They will communicate no Insight of the interior Part of the Country and tho possest of Maps, and Charts deny them. The inner Part of the Country to the Northward manufacture, Cottons, & a Mixture of Silk and Cotton & many very curious things in that Line, which [end page 77]

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The oldest Captain is Commodore of the Coast. These convoy Fleets of Boats up and down the Coast, carry Dispatches & go to Persia Bengal etc. From the Adjacent Island of Salsett, Surat & other Settlements, Bombay is supplied with Necessaries. Of the Animal Kind, they get Bullocks, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Buffaloes, Hares, Ducks, Fowls, Geese & Turkeys. with different Kind of Wild Fowl. Of Fish, there are Plenty. Soles, Skeat Maids, Pompets, Mullet, Eels, Modishun Fish, Rock Cod & many others. Of the vegetable their Gardens produce Cabbages, a Kind of Spinach, the finest Onions in the World, french Beans, Cucumbers, Musk & Water Melons, Pine apples, Mangoes, Guavas, Plantains, Bananas, Pawpaws, Custard apples, & other Fruits imitative of the european kind & making good substitutes for Gooseberry & Apple Pies. They have likewise Radishes, Lettuce & other sallad Herbs & Roots. Their Trees are besides the Fruit Trees before Mentirn’d, the Teak, an excellent kind of black wood, the Ricinus vulgaris, Palmira Tree, Cocoa Nut Tree etc. Which last is of infinite Service from the various Uses it is put to. From a rough hairy Part of the outside of the Nut is make all kinds of Rope, even Cables, The Inside of the Nut supplies them with an agreeable Drink, call’d the Milk, & they use the Nut itself in Curries. The Shell they burn, I believe to make a kind of blacking. By wounding the lofty Branching, A Liquor exudes, with which they sometimes [end page 76]

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find a Market at Bombay for Copper, Iron, Steel, red & white Lead, Anchors & all kinds of marine Stores. Provisions sell all over India. But they are very rigid at the Custom House, which is a considerable draw back on the Goods. The Bombay Merchants send annually, several ships to China and Bengal, loaded with Cotton, which grows in great Plenty in the Country about Surat. . Lead, Cloth Cochineal etc. are Commodities for the China Markett. To England they send coarse Bale Goods & Pepper, & carry on a brisk Trade up the Persian Gulph. Yet the Trade & Reveneus are not sufficient to defray the Annual Expences, wherefore it is in one Sense a Burden to the Company who are obliged to supply them with Money from Bengal. Those Supplies since the Commencement of the Maratta War have been enormous; The Troops likewise belonging to this Coast which commonly amount to ___, have been found insufficient, so that Bengal & Madras have likewise furnish’d them with Forces. Coll. Goddard march’d over Land from Bengal to Surat, with 6000 Men, but has not been able to gain any great Advantage over the Marattas. The Coast of Malabar is so infested with Pirates that the Government of Bombay is under a Necessity of Supporting a regular Marine. They have a Number of Ships, Grabs, Snows, Ketches, Gallivats commanded by Captains and Lieutenants. [end page 75]

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to them in Point of Ability. Indeed they may be said to be superior, as almost all the offices belonging to the Custom Master, Paymasters etc. are fill’d with Gentoo Clarks call’d Purvo’s, who accompt & write as well as Europeans. Besides the Persees and Gentoos, there are Moors, who adapt themselves for all Services, Merchants, Shopkeepers Sailors, Taylors etc. The Gentoo and Moor Languages are talk’d in common by all three, for the Persees retain Nothing of Persia but their Religion; they are totally ignorant of the persian Language. The same domestic Laws and Customs prevail amongst them, as in all other Parts inhabited by Gentoos. etc. & they are all punishable by the brittish Laws. Bombay Dock & marine Yard render this settlement an important one. The Dock will contain three Indiamen at a Time, where they are repair’d, clean’d etc. as well as in England. They build excellent ships, capable of carrying fifty Guns, and sheath them with Copper. The Timber they use for this purpose is call’d Teak; it is firmer and heavier than Oak & preserves those Qualities much longer. The ship and Boatbuilding is executed by the Persees who are remarkably clever in this Branch. One Advantage they have over us is that they have no Necessity to let the Timber lay any Time to season for it never shrinks. Besides European Bottoms are soon eat thro by Worms in the indian seas; these the Teak Bottoms resist, the wood being too hard for the worms to penetrate. . . European ships [end page 74]

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which amongst the Natives constitute a Trade. An Owner of a small piece of Ground plants a Number of those Trees, taking Care to have the Convenience of Water, & in a few Years they bear Fruit & are then let for a yearly Rent. The Inhabitants of Bombay consist of a great Vanity of Breeds. The English of Course hold the highest Rank, then the Descendants of the English by black Women, of which there are a great Number of a very disagreeable Colour, being neither black nor white. There are a Number of Portuguese, black, some of whom are partly rich. All these we suppose have an european Mixture in them. Of the Native Eastern Branch, the Persees tho originally not of this Coast claim the Preference, because they have the most Money & the greatest Rogues. Yet to do them Justice there are some very good People amongst them. This Branch of People are descendants from the Ancient Inhabitants of Persia, who upon the Conquest of that Country by the Mahometans, fled into India to preserve their Religion; The Mahometans putting all to the sword, who would not embrace theirs. The Gentoos afforded them an Asylum on Condition they would in Compliance with the Gentoo Religion abstain from Pork, which they promis’d & perform it as punctually as the Jews in London. Those are the Worshippers of the Sun, and of the Fire, which latter they dare not extinguish. The Countenance those People have lately receiv’d from the English, makes them rank themselves above the Gentoos, who are not a whit inferior [end page 73]

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depriv’d of Rain a few Days it droops, withers, & dies. How wisely then has providence provided for its Creatures. Tho’ the Rains deny all Intercourse, and Traffick, yet they come periodically & afford I may say an agreeable Cessation to recruit Strength, adjust past Occurences & adopt future plans. Tho’ they forbid Exercise abroad they come follow’d by a Train of Blessings, Vegetation, Verdure, Strength Plenty & Delight. The Beasts as well for Food, as burden, find wherewithal in this comparatively short vacation, to be again useful in the Service of Man. The Air loaded with unsalutary Particles and Clouds with electrical Fire, might produce dreadful Havock on the Earth were it not thus defended. The Sources of the Springs and Rivers would be dried up, Wells exhausted, seeds in the Earth become lifeless, & depriv’d of those essential articles, how could the Inhabitants of the Earth exist. . . Bombay, tho not the Principal Settlement the Company possess in India, is of as great Importance to Navigation & of course to Commerce, as any of the other Places if not more so. It commands the whole Malabar Coast. The Fortifications are very good, and the Town well garrison’d would be able to sustain a long Seige. The Island is about Nine Miles long, and three broad, but unable to support its Inhabitants. Provisions are brought from Surat, & the Adjacent Island of Salsett where the Company have a Garrison. It is very rocky Yet in some Parts, innumerable Quantities of Cocoa Nut Trees grow, [end page 72]

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Vegetable can be seen, but clouds of hot sandy Dust almost obscure the Sky. Yet after a few Showers of Rain the Earth grows refresh’d & produces Grass in the most barren spot & the Trees & Plants once more receive their Pristine Vigour and Beauty. At Intervals the Weather, seems exceedingly cold, so as to oblige the Natives & those who have long inhabited the Country to wear Cloth. Yet the Thermometer was seldom below 80º. By an exact Observation every Day at Noon during three Months Rain I generally found it from 80º to 84º. Tho’ in an extraordinary fine Day it would rise to 86º. And in a Squall of Wind and Rain fall to 79º. The Sudden Change of the Air, & the Temperature of the Climate, must needs have some ill Effect on the Health or Constitutions of the Inhabitants, especially when we consider, that the Earth has been scorching, for the space of eight Months, and the Air pure and elastic. Yet I observ’d its Effects were less perceiv’d by the Natives & People accustom’d to the Climate than by new Comers. Indeed Gouts Rheumatisms, and chronical Disorders, were exasperated in the unhappy People subject to those Complaints, but fresh Disorders were hardly felt. Those afflicted with the Dysentery, or any Disease attended with much Debility, and Relaxation, must evidently fall victims to the Change, as must the Asthmatic etc. But those Effects, ill as they may be, Providence has counterbalanc’d by the excellent Disposition it reproduces in the system of things in general. Rice, that grand support of Millions, can only be produc’d (to Perfection) by Moisture. [end page 71]

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The Navigation from Bombay to Surat is said to be dangerous, and some Ships take a Pilot from Bombay. We went up with a foul wind, yet were in no Danger; such precise rules are laid down to avoid the sands which are on each Side, that a little attention carries the ship safe. We were a long while going up, having the wind in our Teeth, and a strong Ebb Tide against us, which obliged us to anchor frequently, but coming down, every thing was in our Favor. On the 30th of April we came to an anchor in Bombay Harbour, which is a very fine one secure on all sides, Yet as the winds blow directly on the Coast and drives a prodigious sea before it, those must be a swell in the Harbour. During the rainy Season all Commerce ceases in this Port; the Ships are stript of every thing to their lower Masts, which are only supported by a single stay each, & have Tubs turn’d over their Heads. The greater Part of them are thatch’d from one End to the other. They ride by Chains, which are very large and strong, yet nevertheless sometimes break, & ships are often a drift in the Harbour. . . The Beginning of the Rains is generally regular to a fortnight. The early Part of May generally produces it. A few light Showers fall the first three or four Days after which they grow heavier and become incessant. They continue in this Manner, two, three or four Months, attended all the while with Thunder, and Lightnings. The Weather, before the Rains come on, is excessive hot, & the Earth so parcht up, as to forbid walking on it, even the Natives can scarcely support it. No green Tree or [end page 70]

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having taken a vast Number of their Martinique, St Domingo and other West Indiamen, with seven or eight very valuable East Indiamen, to revenge which, it was reported & not without gaining Credit, that they had collected a pow’rful Fleet to intercept us in our Passage. This Scheme might have been easily effected, & if attended with Success (as the Weather was very favourable for a Cruizer in the Bay) would not only have procur’d them Honour, but have amply repaid their numerous Losses. In the Chops of the Channell we fell in with the Courageux, Lord Mulgrave, on a Cruize, who join’d, & proceeded with the Fleet. We pursued our Course without Interruption or Loss of any Part of the Fleet, for A Week; At the End of which we parted from our Convoy in a Fog, & was left a single, comparatively defenceless Ship, which would have fall’n a prey to a frigate, or almost any Adventrous Privateer. The Perturbation we were in is not easily to be described, since we had Nothing to expect but a Visit to France. Our Ship carried Twenty, nine Pounders on the Gun-Deck, and six, four pounders on the Quarter Deck, but then we were so deep and unwieldy, that a swiftsailing light Ship, might easily have Kept in [end page 7]

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inhabit Surat is incredible, & they live in such little tottering Houses as surprizes one, for a Person seems to be in danger as he walks thro’ their narrow streets, nevertheless they carry on Business there with the utmost Regularity, and I have heard it frequently call’d a good Place. The English Resident here (or Chief) is a Counsellor of Bombay, who with four or five senior Merchants form a Council at Surat; but, no great Fortunes can be made here, except by those who have Interest enough to procure, two or three lucrative Posts. It is the Residence of a Nabob. The French, Dutch & Portuguese, had, Factories here but the French Factory since the War commenc’d has been broke up. There is a Castle in the City which mounts a Number of Guns. All kinds of Provisions are to be got at Surat. Excellent Beef & Mutton, Potatoes, Cabbages, Yams etc. with which they supply Bombay, as likewise Wheat & Rice. There are always two or three Vessels belonging to Bombay Marine station’d here, of which the youngest Bombay Captain is generally Commodore. The Bar runs out a long Way, which renders it very dangerous laying there especially at the Monsoon Time which commences sooner than at Bombay. Such an Amazing swell rolls in, that ships often break adrift & get upon the Bar. The Atlas parted her Cable here & lost an Anchor, but fortunately came too in plenty of Water. In this Country they manufacture, Silks, Cottons, Shawls, etc. Drugs etc. are to be bought. [end page 69]

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They make a quantity of Arrack here which is its staple Trade We got on board a few Hogs, Bullocks & some water, and Six of our Ship’s Company ran away. April 1st Weigh’d and got under sail, in Company with the Atlas. 2nd Saw Eleven Sail of Marattos. Had a foul Wind and strong Current so were obliged to stand off the Coast. 7th Saw a Fleet for Bombay 9th Spoke them & they prov’d to be Company’s vessels 10th Saw Ragipore. 16th Saw Choul. 17th being off Bombay the Chance cruizer Captn. Bond came on board to conduct us in. We came to to anchor just within the Harbour, but receiv’d orders from the Governor and Council, to continue our Course to Surat. Weigh’d immediately and stood out with the Atlas. Here we found the Tide exceeding strong, so that we were obliged to go up with the Flood and come to with the Ebb. 24th We came to an Anchor at Surat Bar. The City of Surat lies 15 or 16 Miles up the Country on a broad Shallow River, navigable only with the Tide. Its banks are very low, and it divides into a Number of small Streams, wch in the Time of the heavy Rains unite and form a kind of fresh Water Sea. At this Time no Navigation is practicable. Surat lies about two Degrees to the Northward of Bombay, is large & populous, and a Place of Trade. In Time of Peace it is the Key to the Trade of the inward or Guzurat Country, which takes off a Number of european Commodities. The Number of People which [end page 68]

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Goa Bay & forms a semicircle at the northernmost Extremity of which stands Alguarda Fort & at the southernmost the Monastary of Nostra Signiora de la Caba. At the bottom of the Bay begins Goa River It is a Narrow Gut, on one bank of which is a small Fort. This River in its Passage to Goa City which is about seven Miles, forms two other large Bays. The Banks of this River are adorn’d with Houses wch look Nobly at a Distance, but when you come close to them, there is a great falling off. Sailing down the River a Person would suppose Goa to be a most elegant City with magnificent Buildings, but on Landing, nothing is seen but a few ill built, whitewash’d Churches. The Portuguese in this Part of the World, seem to apply themselves to Business, less than any other Part of Mankind. At any Other Settlement on the Coast they are glad to traffick, but here it is the contrary. That they are blind to their own Interest is certain, but whether it proceeds from Ignorance or Principal is a Doubt, but true it is, that the Crown of Portugal is daily enriching itself, whilst Individuals tho high in Office have but one Coat to their Backs. Their Rigour to the Natives is notorious, binding them down to one branch of Religion, whilst all other Powers in India tolerate all Religions. Strangers, find no Entertainment here even for Money; here are no Inns, and no Place to lodge in, except a Dismal Hole given by the Nabob and call’d the english Choultry & even here a Glass of Water is hard to be got. [end page 67]

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The FRIAR'S HOOD on Ceylon.
Bearing WbS 5 Leagues Latitude. Longitude.

The Town of POINT GALLO. on the Island of Ceylon.
Bearing E NE 3 Leagues. Latitude. Longitude

ADAM'S PEAK on Ceylon
Bearing EbN. 3 or 4 Leagues. Latitude Longitude

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The Island of ST PAUL in the Indian Sea.
Bearing 2 Leagues. Latitude 37º • 50' [??] Longitude

[TBA]

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On the 5th we came to an Anchor off Angings a Small English Settlement on the Coast of Malabar, where we inform’d that a Number of Maratha’s infested the Coast. 7th We came to an anchor at Cochin a dutch Settlement, where they have a Governor, Council etc. It is the Capital of the dutch Settlements on this Coast, but remarkable for Nothing, but a species of the Elephantiasis found amongst the black People in plenty. It generally affects the Leg & is commonly call’d the Cochin Leg. Here is a Bar, but it may be avoided, there being a wide Channel, Yet an english E. Indiaman’s Boat was once lost here, whereby a Lady, the Captain, 2d Mate & Doctor were drown’d. We sail’d from hence the 10th, and anchor’d the 13th in Callicut Road. Here we saw a fleet of ships one of which hoisted Company’s Colours They weigh’d and stood after us. 14th. Saw Sacrifice Rock, there being light Winds we did not pass it till the 16th. When it appear’d to be a kind of Pumice Stone, without the least appearance of Herbage. 16th pass’d Tillicherry & 12th Mt.dilla 20th Saw Mangelore the fortified Town of the famous Hyder Aly. join’d by the Bessborough and a Snow. 22 Saw St Mary’s Rocks. 24th saw Hog Island, Pigeon Island, & Bassalore. 26th Saw Anjedive, & the Oyster Rocks off Carwar. 27th Saw Cape Raymas. 28th Saw St George’s Island and Marmagon Salset. In the Afternoon Anchor’d in Goa Bay. and saluted the Fort. Goa is the principal Settlement the Portuguese have in the East. The outer Harbour where large Ships lie is call’d [end page 63]

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We left Madras on the 12th of February, in Company with the Atlas, (the Bessborough having gone before). Off Couvelan the Atlas got aground within Sight of the Ships in Madras Roads. We presently after came to an Anchor, and sent her Assistance. In about fifteen Hours she got off without receiving any Considerable Damage. On the 14th We saw Pondicherry Flagg Staff, and came to an Anchor in the Night. Pondicherry is situated along shore like Madras, but the Surf does not beat quite so violent. It has some good buildings and the Fortification were masterly, but they are almost destroyed. A Battalion of Sepoys are garrison’d here under the Command of a Major & the French Inhabitants live very peaceably under the English Government. The black Town here is more regularly built than that at Madras, but their Customs etc. are nearly the same, they being about 100 miles distant. The Vegetables are said to be much better here than at Madras, tho’ I did not observe a remarkable difference. On the 17th of February after taking in 160 Sepoys, Officers, etc. We made Sail in Company with the Atlas, Bessborough, and some country vessels. It is a beautiful Coast and would be very pleasant but for Currents, foul Winds, Shoals etc. some of which one is sure to meet with. On the 21st we made the Island of Ceylon & on the first of March Cape Comorin, the Southernmost Point of the hither Peninsula of India. Here we gave Chace to a Country Ship but could not come up with her. On the 2nd the Bessborough & Country Ships left us. [end page 62]

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These Circumstances naturally give rise to the following Questions. Are these Troops sent to India for the good of the public service (in preference to any other Men), or to enrich private persons? Is not some Interest requisite to procure the appointment? Is it not cruel to sacrifice the deserving many for the undeserving few? etc. By an Unhappy misconduct betwixt the Captain and his Officers the Ship was in an uncomfortable Situation. The Chief Mate then under Suspension; the second Mate had been twice suspended during the Passage & requested to leave the Ship which was granted; the third Mate quite dissatisfied as was the whole Ship’s Company, which was now reduced to a small Number. Five Gentlemen were appointed to enquire into the Chief Mate’s Conduct but the Ship did not stay long enough to have it decided, wherefore he continued in Suspension till we should arrive at Bombay. We were ordered by the Governor and Council to sail with the Atlas and Bessborough to Pondicherry, there to take in a Battalion of Seapoys and proceed with them to Surat. The other Indiamen who came with us were order’d to their respective Ports in India except the Norfolk, who was to sail for England, in Company with the Ganges & Genl. Baker, in which Sr Thos. Rumbold (Governor) and his Family were going home; Sir Edward Vernon & a Captn of a Man of War, intended to sail in the Norfolk . . . . . [end page 61]

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The Day after we came to an Anchor in Madras Roads, a Cutter from the Asia Man of War, with a Lieutenant, came on board and took twenty of our Hands out. At Madras I had an Oportunity of seeing how injudicious a Step it is to send young Highlanders to India. They say they endure hardships better than other english Soldiers, that they would follow their leaders to the End of the World without Murmur, that Vicissitude of Climate and all the disadvantages of Life have no Effect on them. I believe that if the Will alone was sufficient all this would be done but why better than English or Irishmen? Can it be suppos’d that Men born in a high Northern Latitude, expos’d from their Infancy to the Inclemency of cold weather, whose Exercise has been always little and Diet exceedingly scanty, should be fit Persons to resist the burning Heat of India, where the coldest day is hotter perhaps than they ever felt it? A Melancholy Instance of the Contrary we had in the Passage when the air was cool’d by Breezes, & where tho the Mortality amongst the Highlanders was so great, the English or Irish Soldiers scarcely suffer’d. On their Landing in India they fell away like rotten Sheep. Men apparently in Health were dead in a few Hours, & what could this be attributed to but the Climate. In Fact the Heat here is almost intolerable to the Natives at Particular Times of the Day, how then must it be for those poor wretches, who have been wading in snow from their Infancy … [end page 60]

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a numerous Train of assailing Evils; immediately on his return to England, before he has seen his relations or even had an Oportunity of informing them of his return, he is dragg’d from his Ship perhaps emaciated by disease, and confined to the Hold of one of his Majesty’s Tenders, there to reexperience the shocking miseries he flatter’d himself he was freed from. Happy would it be for those Men, and for the Navy, and Kingdom in general, could some Expedient be hit on to man his Majestys Navy in a more respectable Manner, and explode a Practice disgraceful to the Service and shocking to Humanity.) There were likewise on board two Companies of the 73rd Regt of Foot or Sd. M[?]sends Highlanders, and twenty five of the Company’s Recruits, who were all (except the Officers) stowed on the Orlope Deck; betwixt the after part of the after & fore part of the fore Hatchway. So that with those before mention’d, and nine Passengers the Ship was uncommonly crouded. We had a continual fair Wind & fine Weather till we got clear of the Land, which was three Days after our Sailing. At this Time Hostilities were eagerly carried on betwixt England, & France by Sea, and with great success on our side; our Cruizers [end page 6]

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Their sepoys make excellent Soldiers, are kept in high discipline, and seldom disent; they have now commission’d officers of their own, but all the commission’d officers are white Men. A Coolness has long prevail’d betwixt the military & civil Lines, the former of which are subordinate to the latter. This Coolness extends so far as even to affect a Young Man coming out in either Line . .
Up the Country are innumerable small settlements at which they manufacture Cloth, Muslins, Cambries etc. which, with precious stones, constitute the Export Trade of this Coast. Its Situation is very much against it, as a Place of Trade, as a violent surf always beats on the Beach, by which the Boats often overset, and never a Year passes without Lives being thus lost. It would be impossible for european Boats to land there without being Stove to Pieces, wherefore they have Boats constructed on Purpose, being sown together with Rope made of the Plantain Tree that they may give way to every wave. . There are a Set of Men at Madras call’d Juglars whose Feats are really curious & astonishing but some of them at the same Time disgusting, such as thrusting a naked sword, down their Throats, swallowing large Quantities of Hair etc. passing a crooked Instrument thro’ their Nostrils, which coming out at their Mouths they fasten a Fire Wheel to it and set it off. They likewise carry about snakes of various sizes and Kinds. [end page 59]

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Yet altho these Girls perform those Feats in Honour of the Divinity and before their Temples, they are a set of abandon’d Prostitutes, & dance no longer than they are Paid. I have hitherto been speaking of the Gentoos but these are a great Many call’d Moors, who follow Mahometanism, but differ little in their Dress, Manner of Living, etc. from the Gentoos. Polygamy is not allow’d amongst the Gentoos, but they who can afford, generally keep a Number of Women; & as they are contracted to each other Young, without their Consent & even without their knowledge of each other, it generally happens that the poor Wife is sacrificd to the Rage of a disappointed Man who has the Power of treating her as his slave, as he generally does. I believe in some Cases Bigamy is admissable. The Gentoos burn their dead, & the so much talk’d of Custom of their wives burning with them voluntarily would prevail here, was it not prevented by the strict Injuctions of the English.
The Nabob of Arcot who nominally governs the Carnatic, resides at a House about two Miles from the Town, tho’ in Times of Danger he comes to Madras for Safety. He is said to be very poor & one great proof of it is, the slow Payment of his Troops. The Nabobs’ and Company’s Forces amount to the Number of ___. Who are dispers’d all over the Carnatic, to exact obedience & collect the Revenue which amounts annually to the sum of ___ [end page 58]

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Three of us only in a small House had no less than forty black Fellows of various denominations in waiting, exclusive of Cooleys to carry Burdens. Long Custom seems to have made this necessary. The black people here are very numerous & it seems as tho’ their Religion had an Eye to their Numbers, when it forbad many Casts from eating Meat, so that Rice which they get in great Quantities to the Northward is their principal Food. They have another Grain call’d Doll, resembling our pease. They are very fond of things greacey or hot & as they have Buffalo Butter & Chili peppers in great Quantities, they are never at a loss for it. They all Chew the Beetle Leaf & Nut, with a small piece of Chenam, or Oyster shells calcin’d and mixt with water. The Beetle is held in high Esteeme; At the Procession an old Priest from the Carriage, who sits as it were supporting his God, distributes Beetle Leaves to the Crowd. At the New Moon and other public Festivals, Girls dance before the Images of the Gods all Night, which is a curious solemnity well worth seeing. They writhe & contort their Limbs in a Variety of surprizing Forms, which would be admired even at Sadlers Wells. The dance seems to be a regular successions of steps & Motions which must be gone thro’ from the simplest to the Most Complex, & I have seen little Girls perform it, With surprizing Agility. At this Solemnity they put Wreaths of Flowers highly perfum’d, round the Neck of the Spectators. [end page 57]

A Voyage to the East Indies: Page 56

I once ask’d the Reason of this, & received the following modest Reply. “Woman was made entirely for the Service of Man.” The trading, part of the People are divided into Debashes and Merchants. The Merchant receives his Goods from small settlements up the Country of which these are a Great many thro’out the Carnatic, Your Debash is a Person who constantly attends upon you, knows all your concerns, buys & sells & conducts all your Merchandize. Every Gentleman in the Settlement has one of these, and on a ship’s arrival from Europe, a Number of them go on board and offer their services producing Letters of Recommendation. Every Man who has any thing to sell or buy fixes upon one, who from that Time becomes his Steward. He is a kind of intermediate Person or broker, betwixt the Merchant and his Master, for which he gets so much pCent from the Merchant. They receive no Wages being glad to do the Business for Nothing. There is no doubt but the Debash will cheat his Master, but in a less degree than the Merchant would, was there no Debash, Wherefore of two Evils the least is to be chosen. It is amazing to see what a Train these Fellow drag after them, as they have the appointment of all their Master’s servants, who are always very numerous. [end page 56]

A Voyage to the East Indies: Page 55

The Dress of both sexes is thin & light. The Men, (or at least those who can afford) wear next their Bodies a thin kind of shirt, open before without Sleeves, & reaching generally as low as ours. Over that when he goes abroad he has a long Gown made of Muslin Doria or fine thin Cloth, which fits Close to the Body & Arms, & buttons round the Neck, but falls from the Waist in Folds, gather’d like our Ladies Gowns in England, which reach to the Ground. Under, they have Trousers, & some of them wear shoes, with curling Tops. A long Volume of fine Cloth forms thin Turban which they wrap closely round their Heads. No Dress could be better calculated for this Country, where the Heat of the Sun is so intense & its Rays falling so directly on their Heads. The poorer sort wear only a Piece of coarse Stuff wrapp’d round their Middles. The Women have a long Piece of Coloured Cloth & sometimes Silk tho very seldom, folded round their Bodies in various Forms, passing obliquely from one Hip to the opposite shoulder whereby, a Part of their Bodies only is conceal’d. Their Toes, Fingers, Legs, Arms & even Noses are loaded with Ornaments, according to the ability of the Father or Husband, but even the poorest amongst them have their Ornaments on their Arms & Toes. The poor women are obliged to perform all laborious work, such as fetching of wood, water, & other kinds of Burthen, whilst perhaps the Husband is indulging himself in Indolence. [end page 55]

A Voyage to the East Indies: Page 54

from high Poles on either Side on which they hoist Flags of various Colours & entwine the whole with Flowers. They have likewise Wooden Figures of Bulls & Camels as large as the Life. These People are divided into a great Vanity of Classes, call’d Casts, to describe the Customs of each of which would be an endless Piece of work, far beyond my knowledge. Religion is the fundamental Principle on which they act; the Care of which together with the distribution of Justice, Knowledge of Medicine and Inculcation of Knowledge is committed to the Bramins who are the principle. To these all other People of what Cast soever pay respect. They are prohibited from practising any of the meaner Arts & are supported by donations or rather Exactions from the People in general who are divided into an infinity of Casts, whose Precedence is regulated. No person dares invade a different Cast, but each must follow his allotted Employment. Thus the Taylor’s Son must be a Taylor, the Shoemaker’s a Shoemaker. Intermarriages with various Casts are likewise forbid. By the Comission of certain Crimes, or by the degeneracy of Breed, they sometimes irrecoverably lose their Cast, & go under the denomination of Parrears, being never after made the least Account of, nor distinguish’d from Brutes, but pursue unnotic’d any libidinous Cause they please. [end page 54]