Lewis & Clark College

I do not know the history of this book, but think I recollect my father saying it was a record kept by one of the Pierce family of his voyage to India in 1779. I have read it but do not find any name or reference giving a clue. It is interesting as showing the hardships endured by travellers in those days, now over 150 years ago.
J.M.O–
16/9/[?]1

Note:-
Richard Pierce left England in Command of the H.E.I. Coy’s “Halsewell,” in 1779. See page 128 of “East Indiamen The East India Coy’s Maritime Service,” by Sir Evan Cotton (1949)
–––– . . . ––––
[??]ar[?]es
Master Mariner
Re[??]

Evening when we were reducing things to their proper Order, & thinking ourselves secure for that Night, another Sail would appear, and put us again in the same Embarrassment. This Scene was continued till we arriv’d in sight of Porto Santo, an island belonging to the Portuguese situate on Lat ___ Long. ___ This island appears like a Number of Pyramids rising in oblique directions, each terminating in an almost Acute Apex. It was formerly barren, but is now in some Parts fertile & cover’d with a pleasant verdure. Several of the Inhabitants of Madeira, have Plantations here which produce Grapes, Figs, and all the tropical Fruits. Within Sight of this Island are several others all very contiguous, call’d the Deserters; each of which appears to be an entire Rock void of Soil or Inhabitants, but on our arrival at Madeira from which they may be plainly seen, we were inform’d that those Islands are made a kind of Habitation, for those Criminals, whose Offences not meriting death, doom them to be transported hither for Life, or an appointed Term of Years. One Part of them is habitable, & that they cultivate with utensils given them for that Purpose & sow a Quantity of Grain, with which they are supplied when put on Shore according to the Heinousness of their crimes. This must be a [end page 10]

The Consequence of which was that the next Morning the Commodore was out of sight a stern, & the Day following the True Briton started from us so that the Fox and us were left to round the Cape by ourselves. We had a fresh Gale And exceedingly cold Weather off the Cape, so severe as to knock up our poor Lascars who had never experienced any thing of the Kind before. This gave birth to some symptoms of the Scurvy, but as the fresh Breeze carried us every Day into warmer weather, its progress was not quite so rapid as it is generally found to be. On the 12th of March without meeting with any kind of ship or vessel we arriv’d at St Helena. There we found riding the Princess vessel from Bencoolen, who had been there seven weeks, & we there heard the disagreeable Account of our having lost five Indiamen one of which was a store ship for St Helena. By the Loss of this ship the Island was thrown into the greatest distress, being in the utmost want of Salt Provisions, and not having a naval store of any kind to supply the shipping. The Common Necessaries, such as Hats, Shoes etc., they had long expended, even the Soldiers could not muster a sufficient Number of Shoes to supply the Guard … [end page 100]

The Island of St Helena lies in Lat.__ Long:__ measures from East to West 11 Miles, and from North to South 12 It is a very lofty rock, bearing in many places not the least signs of vegetation or Herbage & rising every where in rugged points and irregular steep precipices. Its external appearance is beyond Description horrid from the frowning aspect of the Rocks, and in some of the internal parts of the Country, prospects equally intimidating present themselves. The Hills are in one respect regular, being like so many radii proceeding from a point, leaving in the Interstices very deep vallies. To form a Road up those perpendicular rocky Mountains has been a work of immense Trouble and Expence, yet they have so happily succeeded that there remains no part of the Island inaccessible. These Roads are cut in oblique directions on the side of the Mountain, doubling and redoubling in the form of the Letter Z till they reach the Top, and supported on the descending side by a strong stone wall rising more than Breast high above the Levell of the road to prevent Horses from taking fright at the incredible depth below them. Two Horsemen may ride a breast in these Roads with great Ease. All those Interstices call’d Vallies where an Enemy might land, are defended with a Line of Guns, and some of them with Forts on the projecting points of the Rocks. In one of these Vallies is the Town and Garrison, call’d St James’s Valley, where the Houses are built in [end page 103]

a regular method, forming the appearance of a small, neat, english Country Town. A very lofty Hill call’d Ladder Hill rises on the West Side, and one little inferior in point of Height on the East call’d Mundine’s, because on the extreme point of this rocky Hill projecting into the Sea Captn Mundine in 1673 landed a number of Men from his Jibb-Boom and retook the Island from the Dutch, who had taken it from the English the proceeding year. St James’s Valley at the Beach is about __ Yards broad (where there is an excellent Line of heavy Guns and preserves that Breadth for the distance of a Mile, where it contracts and takes a winding direction. A few Yards behind the Guns on the Line is a fine row of Trees, the whole length of the Line, which affords a very agreeable shady walk, and exhibits by its perpetual verdure a most striking contrast to the impending Rocks which frown horribly on either side. A wall immediately behind separates the Line from the Town adjoining to which are the Company’s Offices & Store Houses, the Governor’s House and Esplanade which occupy a space parallel with the Line of Guns about __ Feet Broad. The main Guard, Officer’s Guard room, & Court Martial Room stand immediately behind the Governor’s House; opposite to which on the other side of the Esplanade, are the Smith’s Shops & Jail. The street commences from the Espanade, one Corner of which is form’d by the Church, the other by a wall enclosing the Companies Garden. The Church is a small plain Edifice lately erected by Captn. Tippet, when [end page 104]

Engineer of the Island. The Gardens are not worth mentioning. Houses are adjoin’d to each of these & running in a direct line up the valley from a very pretty street to the distance of 12 or 14 Houses, where it separates into two small streets forming an acute angle. The left Hand Street extends but a short distance, the right Hand one has a bridge immediately after its separation and extends a considerable way up the valley containing, Europe Shops, Punch Houses and People of the middle and lower class, and is call’d the upper valley, whilst that part below the bridge is the court end of the town and call’d the lower valley. At the extreme End of the right Hand Street is a fine row of trees, nearly half a Mile in Length, at about half the distance of which are Barracks for the Accomodation of the eight Junior Officers on the Island and for all the Soldiers, and at the upper End stands the Hospital which is no more than a dwelling House made use of for that purpose. The Governors House is a very neat building, as is the Lt. Governor’s, both furnish’d by the Company, & there are several other neat, but not large Houses in the valley. They are very dear as all materials for building must be brought thither by the shipping. I suppose they fetch as much money as Houses of an equal Goodness would in a frequented part of London. At the back of their Houses is a strong wall to stop any stones that may tumble from the mountains which hang frightfully over the valley. The Number [end page 105]

of Inhabitants of the Island are said to be 2100, 1200 of whom are blacks who are kept under the most rigid subjection by their Masters. The Appearance of the interior parts of the Country after gaining the summit of one of the Hills is in some parts very romantic, because one of the highest peaks will be cover’d with verdure, whilst the next, the much lower may not have a blade of Grass. The country has a number of Houses dispers’d throughout, the owners of the greatest part of whom, have Houses likewise in the valley, on account of being in the Company’s service. Which circumstance alone has been the Destruction of the Island, for planters (so farmers are call’d) for many having no reliance but on their Cattle and their land, were really industrious and indefatigable; but when once receiv’d into the service, they get a sinecure for doing nothing, and lapse into a state of Negligence and Inactivity. . As this Island was originally peopled and is now held for the sole purpose of refreshing the Companies ships homeward bound, principal attention is paid to the rearing and keeping of black Cattle. And as Herbage is so excessively scarce, to prevent a greater Consumption of it than is absolutely necessary, several Ordinations have been establish’d, whereby every planter must annually give in an Account of the numbers of black Cattle he feeds (which number is limited by the Govr. & Council) [end page 106]

and the reasons for any deficiency or superfluity, nor is it lawful for a Man to kill a Bullock of his own, without being first authorised by the Govr. & Council so to do. A Bullock is allowed to every three Acres, and the planters Names being constantly enroll’d in a List together with the Extent of the Farms, it is next to an impossibility for Cattle to be kill’d without its becoming public. They kill in rotation, every Planter having it in his Turn to kill in a regular Manner. It being lately imagin’d that the Number of Sheep fed on the Island destroy’d the feed of the black Cattle, an order was issu’d that every planter should keep such a number of sheep only, to such a number of acres, as the Island, (they said) was in danger of being overrun. There are a great Number of Goats running wild on the Island, who sometimes do Considerable Mischief by getting upon high precipices and tumbling down loose Pieces of Rock; these the soldiers are paid for killing when found in certain Situations. All kinds of poultry are scarce in this Island, owing to their being obliged to import all the Grain they give them. The price of provisions is Beef when permitted to be sold 5 PH Sheep 20[?] PHead. Goats 10[?] PHead. Lambs & Kids 10.[?] PHead grown Hogs 4[?] PH - fat D.o 6[?] PH. roasting D.o 5[?] PPig. Fowls 3[?] PCouple. Ducks 3[?] PCouple. Turkins 6[?]. Geese 5[?] Their Gardens never produce a sufficient Quantity of Vegetables to sell, indeed they can scarcely supply themselves when they have Lodgers. [end page 107]

But the Chief Dependance of the Islanders is on the sea, as most of them live upon Fish of which there is great vanity. Every Housekeeper on the Island has a slave continually out in a boat, who when no ships are there entirely support their Master’s Families. Very few Families eat Bread, substituting in its Room a Root call’d Yam which when boil’d bears some resemblance to a Potatoe. On these and Mackarell their slaves subsist, tho they get fish of a better quality viz. YellowTails, Albicores, Cavallies, Bonettoes, Bream, Conger Eels, an excellent kind of spotted Rock fish call’d Jacks, soldiers, Rockfish, Bull’s Eyes, soldiers, fivefingers, silver Eels, leather Coats, Green Fish, Gurmets[?], Old Wives Cunning Fish, Parrotfish, Ink Fish, Trumpetters, Silver Fish & many others. The Soldiers live upon Salt Provisions, & Biscuit which they get from England, or the Cape. The Island abounds with excellent water cresse and every Hill is cover’d with an antiscorbutic Herb, Purslaine, which when boil’d becomes Mucilaginous. These Circumstances, added to [illegible] Temperature of the Climate, prevent the Scurvy from appearing. There are Rabbits, Pheasants, & Partridges on the Island, but not in abundance, as they will not allow them Time to encrease; several kinds of small Birds which have been let fly, have multiplied exceedingly. Here is one Species something resembling the Pidgeon and call’d St. Helena Pidgeon. The Vegetable productions of the [end page 108]

Island are by no means numerous, altho with care, I believe they might raise any thing. They have all the european Gardenstuff & the peach, pear, & apple Trees, the Former of which I think produces peaches equall if not superior to the English. They have no large Timber, but a Considerable Quantity of Underwood & Tirzes of flowers they have the Rose, Pink, Narcissus, Geranium, & a few more, (I omitted when speaking of Fruit to mention, oranges, Lemons, plantains & Grapes,) Mertle grows plentifully in every Hedge. The following eight Lines were written from Report before I had visited every Part of the Island, when I found this assertion erroneous. . There are no venomous Creatures on the Island, & only one, wild one, call’d the Wild Cat, partaking nearly of the Nature of that Animal. Few if any Minerals have been discover’d on the Island. I have heard repeatedly that there were evident marks of Combustion, on the Rocks, with burnt stones resembling pummice, which would seem to tell us that the Island was originally thrown up by some violent commotion below, but altho’ such a suggestion may have its probability, I must confess I never saw any Trace of what is alluded to; the rocks are hard and solid, without any apparent mixture of ore or Metall, rising regularly, stratum super stratum to a great Height. There is a common Notion that under Major Bassets’ House is a Vein of Gold; but I am apt to think that the first fabricator of this Tale, meant that the Vein of Gold, was in that House, the Bassets being the the richest Family on the Island. [end page 109]

PORTO SANCTO

Bearing SbW. 3 Leagues. Latitude 32º • 50' N. Longitude W

The Affairs of the Island are conducted by a Council compos’d of five viz. the Governor Lt Governor & the three senior civil officers, who meet every Monday. The Governor is Commander in Chief of the Forces which are 500, tho’ upon an alarm every Man is on Duty. The Civil Servants & Planters at that Time form Two parties call’d Scouting Parties station’d upon the Hills to roll down stones upon the invaders Heads, by which Means they would certainly be able to do great Execution. An Alarm House is station’d upon the Weathermost Point of the Island & when a Ship is in sight they communicate to the valley by signals. If four sail are seen a general alarm is beat, and should they be in sight at sunset the Garrison is obliged to remain under arms all Night. This the Dutch, Danes, & Swedes, often oblige them to, as they always make the Island, but seldom come in. St. Helena is by nature, peculiarly defended against an Enemy. The __ Trade Wind blows constantly over it, and St James’s Valley is in the leewardmost part of the Island, where the only Anchoring Ground that is to leeward, runs out scarcely three Quarters of a Mile. If an Enemy lands to windward, there is a Strong Battery to receive them at Sandy Bay, from whence their ships will not be able to get out, but be in Danger of going on shore. If they attempt to attack to leeward, they must [end page 110]

necessarily keep very close in shore, where there are several Batteries mounting 32 Pounders, Howitzers etc. over their Heads, who would pour Destruction on a Ship, when no Ships Guns could reach them; And if she is once driven off it will take her several Days to work up again. But I should imagine it would never be worth an Enemy’s While to attempt taking it, since it could be with no other view than to secure the Indiamen as they come in, & which service would be more successfully perform’d by cruizing to windwd. They would meet with nothing but private property on the Island, which must be very inconsiderable; I think it would be a lucky Circumstance for the English E.I. Company, if this Island were taken from them, for every Body knows, the service it does the Company is very inadequate to the 30,000£ PAn.[?] it costs them … Let us place against this 30,000£, the Benefit that the homeward bound ships recieve. When we in Company with the Fox and the two other ships arriv’d we found the Pss.[?] royal, who had been there seven weeks, and notwithstanding she was return’d from the most unhealthy Part of India, they had not been able to procure one Bullock for their People. Upon our remonstrating, we were order’d six Bullocks each during our Stay, but when from the Length of Time it was found absolutely necessary to encrease the allowance, the Planters were reduced to the Necessity (and to them a cruel one) of killing their [end page 111]

Breeding Stock. Vegetables, those most essential Articles for Men sick of, or recovering from the Scurvy are not procurable, except the wild kind. As the Island is annually supplied with Stores, Provisions, etc. from England, if the Store Ship is taken or lost, they are plung’d into the utmost Distress. What then is this Island, without Provisions of either kind, but a kind of Rendezvous, where ships might assemble in order to save the Enemy the Trouble of cruizing for them. . There are many spots of the Company’s Land on the Island admirable calculated for a Garden, where Cabbages, Coleworts and every kind of culinary stuff, might with ease be rear’d to supply the shipping at such a regulated price as might indemnify the Company from Expence, nor would such a step deprive the Cattle of their Pasture if proper spots & corners were chosen. But since the Company have impolitically permitted individuals to engross the Land no Improvements will be made, as they have not spint sufficient to expend a present small sum notwithstanding there is the fairest prospect of its becoming of Advantage to them, and of utility to the Community. I have long deferr’d speaking of their Characters, and I am sorry that it will not redound to their Honour. A Man must be very partial indeed to give them such an one as would not distinguish them from all the world besides for innate and hereditary vices of the Heart. Yet as amongst Thorns, a rising flower will here & there attract our attention, so on the Island of St Helena there are a few, unpolluted by the general Corruption, and who observe the [end page 112]

actions of their fellow Islanders with an attentive eye, in order to preserve a quite different path. Yet those Men are neglected, and perhaps obnoxious to the Generality for their Virtues, on which and on their own Industry they alone have Dependance. . I suppose that on the Face of the Globe there is not an Island, Kingdom or province so distracted by perpetual contentions, and animosities. They whose good Fortune, or the Industry of their Forefathers have plac’d them above the common people, seem to fix their summum bonum in devising new Oppressions for their Inferiors, whilst they on the other Hand, use every artifice, to procure the power of oppressing likewise. Cozenage, Deceit, lying, Stealing, in short Murder, and every other Crime how atrocious soever, pass unnotic’d. When by themselves they study to deceive each other, but the Moment a ship arrives, a cessation takes place, and all turn their attention to pick the pockets of the unwary strangers. . . . . The mean, low, dirty Methods practis’d on this Island to get Money are astonishing. The Idea of one Counsellor’s letting Lodgings, & another’s keeping a Billiard Table, are so irreconcilable with our European Notions of Decorum and Prosperity, that one cannot expect any better Behaviour from them than what I have just mention’d. Had I not been an Eye Witness to it, I should scarcely have believ’d, that the sons of Englishmen would have so degenerated. [end page 113]

Amidst the many Improprieties that are crept into the E.J. Companies Affairs, none I think call louder for attention than one at St Helena, I mean the permitting so great a sale of Liquors to the Soldiers of the Garrison, the consequence of which is, that all subordination is remov’d from amongst them, They are continually unfit for Duty, negligent and ignorant of Discipline, and Lives are frequently lost by their falling in a state of Drunkeness from Rocks over which they must necessarily pass. Scarcely a single Guard is relieve’d, without some being under Confinement for Drunkeness, or for Crimes committed under its Influence. . And whilst Liquor is procurable it is impossible to prevent their using it immoderately For a Flogging is of Effect no longer than it is felt, and its Impression on the Mind is effaced before that on the Back. This Evil is severely felt and complain’d of, by the officers, who are no longer obey’d, than their orders are enforc’d by the Drummer’s Hand. An indifferent Person would wonder why an Establishment so easily eradicable, as this appears to be, should resist the strong remonstrances of reason, but he will suspend his wonder when told that by an express order from the Court of Directors, the power of landing and disposing spirituous Liquors is lodg’d in a Society establish’d for that purpose and in them solely. . . . [end page 114]

This society is made up of seven Members whose profits annually amount in the whole at a moderate compensation to £2500. . Which sum is divided as follows. The third and fourth in Council have one third of the whole £833[?].6[?].8 The fifth in Council, Secy. Store Keeper, Parson, & Surgeon divide the remaining ⅔d. having each £333.6.8. ……….
1666.13.4 / 2500 • “ • “
(The Governor, and Lt Governor are excluded from the society) ...
By this Society are licens’d five Punch Houses who are allow’d each sixty Gallons PWeek, and are honour’d with the Title of the Company’s Punch Houses. They buy their Arrack from the Cellars at 6.s 6.d PGallon and retail it to the Soldiers etc. at 12.s 12.d, so that exclusive of the oportunity all people of that Tribe have of adulterating their Liquors The Punch House keepers have a clear annual Profit of £936. It is surprising that in so small an Island (where there are only a Garrison of five hundred Men & that number not compleat) so great a sum as £4680[?] should be clear’d annually by Punch Houses, but it is most strictly true. All the Inhabitants of the Island whether civil or military except the Society are prohibited the Importation of Liquor, but are allow’d a certain Quantity Monthly, paying the Society 6d PGallon above prime cost, and so great is the quantity thus expended as to bring them in nearly [end page 115]

a profit of £500 PAn. The Slaves have seldom the Powers of procuring Liquor, so that all the Punch Houses vend, may be said to be drank up by the Soldiers. As an Instance that what I have said respecting their profits is founded on Fact A Servant of Mr Cornielle Lt Govr. having been a few Years ago appointed thro’ the Interest of his master to one of these Houses, return’d to England lately with £7000. And the present Keeper of one who five Years ago was a servant to the Governor is worth as much if not more. Another Man quitted it whilst I was there having made a handsome Fortune, and four different Families applied for the Vacant Place. Thus are the Lives of a Number of Men sported with in order to advance the Fortunes of a few Individuals, and I fear that whilst 2, or 3000£ is realized by the leading people, no step will be taken to stop such irregularities. Several Schemes have been propos’d, but all rejected, because they were detrimental to their Purses. The Divine and Physician had formerly no Share in this iniquitous Business, and the Islanders relate a very pretty Tale concerning them. These Worthy Personages had for some Time a Salary, very insufficient to support them in a becoming stile, and seeing the vast Income of the Society (which then consisted of five Members only) each had a Hankering for a Share. In pursuance of the General Rule of Politicians they thought the only way to gain admittance, was by commenc [end page 116]

=ing Hostilities with them. Accordingly the Parson inveigh’d bitterly from the Pulpit against Intemperance, and denounc’d God’s Judgements against Drunkards, whereby he became formidable. The Æsculapean Gentleman was as ready to condemn its Effects on the Body, as the other was on the Soul; so that by the one’s pretending to strive for the spiritual, and the other for the temporal Interest, they made a shift to pave a Way to their own; and in a short Time got safely lodg’d in the Society.
Charity and a respect for the Fair Sex prevent me from speaking about what the World speaks of them, or in other Words what they speak of one another. Calumny I will allow is no where so industrious as at St Helena, where an Angel could scarcely be free from consorious Tongues. But at the same Time I must acknowledge that they are destitute of those little winning acts, which endear them to our Sex, and fix a Lustre on Their Character, tho not for want of attention on their part; for being over anxious to please, they set out on an erroneous path, and lose themselves in the Wilds of Coquetry. Besides, their persons being always at the Disposal of perhaps an avaricious parent, and their Charms put up at public Sale to be purchas’d by the best Bidder, are motives sufficient to extinguish the kindling Flame of a generous passion, & make them subservient to a parents selfish Disposition . . [end page 117]

We lay at St Helena twenty weeks in the Course of which Time Twelve ships arriv’d from China, and one from Madras. In the Beginning of July the Shark Sloop who had been detach’d from Johnstons’ Fleet to cruize off the Cape, arriv’d but brought no news we having learnt from a store ship who arriv’d a week before the most remarkable occurrences in Europe and America. In the latter part of July the Renown 50 Gun Ship arriv’d who had been sent to the Brazils for five Chinamen, (who had come to St Helena) but not finding them there after remaining six weeks she came away for St Helena. On the 29th of July 1781 The signal was made for sailing, when we all got under way & proceeded to sea, making together a Fleet of two and twenty sail of which two were Men of War, eighteen Indiamen, and two Whalers, who had been Fishing on the Coast of Brazil, but had been lying at St Helena waiting for Convoy upwards of four Months. We sail’d in two regular Lines having nine Indiaman on each of the Commodore’s Quarters, two of the oldest Captains were order’d to wear Flags, to deceive the Enemy should we be so unfortunate as to fall in with them by our formidable appearance. ––––– [end page 118]

THE DESERTERS

Bearing SSE 4 Leagues. Latitude 32º • 36' N Longitude

miserable Existence indeed, and the unfortunate Innocent who falls a Victim to the Bareness of Prejudice, the Incapacity of Judgement or the Caprice of a malicious Magistrate must most severely feel the Horrors around him. There is not even room for Contemplation or Study, the menacing Aspect of the Rocks striking the Soul Aghast with Horror, and the perpetual Gloom denouncing it the residence of Death. The Wretch who with difficulty escapes the cruel Inquisition to be sent here, has but little good Fortune to boast. Tis true he preserves his Life, but every sublunary Enjoyment is alienated from his Situation … We were becalm’d off these Islands and could not reach Madeira tho but a short Distance from it, till the next Day, when we came to an Anchor in Funchale Roads on the South West Side of the Island . . We roll’d prodigiously going in, there being a great Swell, And carried away our Fore Top Mast, & came to an Anchor, with it down. We found lying here The Tiger Privateer of Bristol, And a West Indiaman who had a Letter of Marque, but none of our Fleet had yet Arriv’d. The Glasgow Frigate came in a few Days after us … [end page 13]

The Island of Madeira lies in Lat. 32•20 N Long is about seventeen Leagues long & nine broad. It has seven Small Bays & Harbours but Ships generally lie in Funchal Roads, a very unsafe Place in some certain Seasons of the Year, when it blows hard upon the Land. The Island is mountainous and rocky having but a very superficial Station of Mould, yet is generally Cover’d with verdure. From the deficiency of Mould, the Island cannot be imagind to produce Grain in large Quantities, tho’ there are some Parts, different from the rest, which yield tolerable Crops of Wheat, Barley, Peases, Beans and a Kind of Lentil for the Cattle. But the principal production of the Island, & what alone renders it an Object of Attention is the very excellent Wine, which grows on every Part of it. True, Unadulterated Madeira Wine, is an excellent Cordial very far superior to any Wine produced in any of the Canary or Cape de Verd Islands. Contrary to almost all other Kinds of Wine it improves by Heat & and has been recovered after being Almost Vinegar by exposing the Cask to the Sun. None of the Merchants who sell it at Madeira possess plantations on the Island; it is produced in the Vineyards of poor People in small Quantities and brought to Town in dried Hog Skins. [end page 14]

The Merchants mix it together in their Wine Vaults according to the Quality of each Skin. It is a very difficult Matter to get genuine Madeira, it being a general Custom to Adulterate it even on the Island, with a Spirit distill’d there from the Vine Stalks call’d by the Portuguese Argodent; And if we consider the Changes it passes thro’ in England, we may conclude that but a small portion of Madeira comes under that Title. Their Vineyards have a very agreeable Appearance, And the Island in general exhibits a very romantic one. The Tops of some of the Mountains are almost inaccessible, yet they say there are Wild Hogs which make them their Constant Residence. Madeira does not abound in a great Vanity of Beasts, I heard of no wild ones except the Hog. Their Horses are remarkably small, & so sure footed, that they climb up the Hills with surprizing Celerity. The Beasts for Provision are as in other Countries, but not in great Plenty and poor. The delectable Situation of this Island admits the Growth of any vegetable or Fruit of other Countries and in excellent Perfection. The english Merchants’ Gardens are delightful and to a Native of a more northern Latitude they appear redoubly so. Here are Walks lined with Myrtle and large Groves and Bowers of that Tree, enchanting to the Eye. [end page 17]

Oranges and Lemons on their native Trees, interspers’d with Shrubs and Flowers; the Whole wears a diversified Fare of unequal variety. They have very fine Springs of Water issuing from the Mountains said to excell any in the World. The town of Funchall is capacious, but irregularly built; all the Streets except one or Two disagreeably narrow. Their Buildings are old and wretched. There are several Churches of which that consecrated to St Antonio is the best, both with respect to Size and Ornamental Possessions. It stands on a Square Piece of Ground, in the Middle of the principal street without any Wall or Pallisadoes round it; & only a Pavement of broad Stones extending a few feet round [illegible] & the same with all their Churches to distinguish them from any other building. The Body of St. Antonio’s Church contains three Altars, each of which are pretty well ornamented, and instill a Kind of sacred Awe, even whilst we abhor the Superstition of their Adorers. These Altars form three Sides of a Square. On one of them before the Image of Christ are Wax Tapers many Inches in Diameter, & several smaller ones before Saints According to their respective Degrees of Elevation. Many [end page 18]

other emblematical Ornaments are bestowed on all three of them. The other Part of the Church is open for the performance of Acts of Devotion, Confession, etc. They have no Churchyard except the consecrated pavement beforementioned. They bury chiefly in Churches, adjoining to each of which is a Bonehouse Whither the Bodies are carried after lying a few days, to make room for others, who would otherwise too much crowd the Church. The most commodious Building here is the Jesuits’ College, consecrated since the Abolition of that Order amongst the Portuguese into dwelling Houses etc. There are few Portuguese People of Property on the Island, English Merchants who have been settled here many Years, seem to have every thing in their Power except Religion . . Fish used to be carried thither before the commencement of the American War but that Trade being obstructed, the poor portuguese who scarcely eat anything else are inconceivably distrest. No Country or People said to be civilized, bear or deserve a worse Character than the Portuguese natives of Madeira; Whether owing to Tuition or Instinct I cannot tell but true it is that no Country extends them in Thievery or other Knavish [end page 19]

Practices, You would expect a different Treatment from their Appearance, no Shoe, or Peruke maker appearing abroad without his Bag Wig and Sword. They are base and groveling in their Servitiude, affected in their outward Behaviour and jealous & vindictive in their Hearts. . . . .
The Streets of Funchall are pitted with sharp stones, [illegible] are very troublesome to a Stranger. The stoutest Person not Accustomed to that Kind of Walking would soon be lamed by them. Yet the Inhabitants do not regard them, and the Horses gallop over them without perceiving an Inconvenience. . A Surf generally beats on the Beach opposite the Town & incommodes the Landing, wherefore People generally go to a Place some distance from the Town where are Stairs cut in a Rock. But Boats with Goods, Water, Provisions etc. must come to & go off from the Beach, where they are sometimes overset. European Boats never go there; the Portuguese have strong ones built on Purpose. The Military Force on the Island is trifling; It is (I think) garrison’d with Five Hundred Men. They have several Bat= [end page 20]

teries, upon some of which are large Cannon. At a little more than a Cable’s length from the Island, is a square Rock, the irregular Interstices of which, are filled up, and a pretty strong Battery erected on it. When it blows hard from the Sea, small vessels retreat behind this Rock & are in smooth Water. They call it the Lee Rock. There is likewise an old Castle situate on an Eminence at the South End of the Town, but I believe there are no Guns in it. They have a Play House on the Island and a Company of Performers, who during our stay there performd several Operas, but – – – –

“Harsh was the Voice, th unmodulated Tongue
in sounds discordant Cupid’s Empire sung” – —

There are several Monasteries on the Island, but poorly indow’d; those I visited, were full of a set of pitiable wretches, none Younger than thirty, seemingly no more sensible of the Embarassment of their Situations, than a confin’d Brute. There was nothing in their Faces which bespoke Sensibility, Joy, or Sorrow . . . . . [end page 21]

We reach’d Madeira on the first of April, and supplied ourselves with many Necessaries, the Price of which we knew would be enhanc’d by the Arrival of the Fleet. Three Days after us the Hyæna Frigate arriv’d, who separated the same Time with us & and the 5th day the Admiral and all the Fleet arriv’d, & we lay there together till the 25th of April when the Fleet being supplied with what necessaries they wanted, we sail’d in Company with the whole Fleet. The Admiral steer’d for the Coast of Africa, and on the 8th of May we sail’d round Cape de Verd, and work’d into Goree Bay. Here we expected to have been opposed by the French and accordingly the Admiral made the Disposition for an Attack, but we were Surprised by seeing english Colours hoisted for the French apprehensive of having a visit paid them by some english Ships, had retir’d from this Island to Senegal a Town situate on the River Gambia, about 2[?] Miles to the NE. of which they had taken Possession & carried thither the principal Part of their Effects. Four small vessels were then in the Bay with their third [end page 22]

GOREE

Bearing SW 3 Miles Latitude 14º • 20' N Longitude.

and last Lading on board and were made Prizes of, by the Admiral. It is reported that Sr. Edwd. Hughes before he left England, had certain Intelligence of this Maneuver of the French, if so he neglected an Oportunity of distressing an Enemy, for Senegal lying so far to windward of Goree, makes the passage from Goree thither tedious, but Sr. Edwd. might if he had chosen, sail’d directly from Madeira to Senegal and taken it & proceeded along the Coast to Goree without causing any Delay. Both these Settlements might have been as easily taken as one, for the French had not Force sufficient to have Repell’d a Quarter of Sr. Edward’s Fleet . . . . The Island of Goree lies in Lat. 1’4 “ 3’0 N Long ___ and is in itself a very insignificant Spot being about two Miles long & scarcely so much as that broad. The Fort stands on the highest Part of the Island, & is accessible but by one Path. It has a Number of Cannon and Commands the whole Island. It is separated from the main Land of Africa by a narrow Gut of about three or four Miles in Breadth, & is of so much importance to the Slave Trade, that whatever Power is in Possession of this Island is Master of the Trade. Was it [end page 25]

not for this it would be an object unworthy Contention. It is inhabited chiefly by a Mixture of Europeans & Africans, who have intermarried, and produced a Breed different from both, and partaking of either. The Fortification is pretty strong and might if well garrison’d hold out a siege for a considerable Time, but so fatal are some seasons of the Year to Europeans in this Part of the World, that few escape the annual Devastation. The Heat is very intense & the winds from off the Neighboring Continent, are exceedingly unsalutary in what they call the healthy Part of the Year. How dreadful then must it be in the Rainy Season, when they are in a Continual Deluge for Months together, The Air being dense, and moist, consequently unfit for Respiration. On the first Day of our Anchoring in the roads we lost a Man, whose death (I presume) was hastn’d by the unwholesome Air, and Land Breezes. During our Stay in Goree Bay, the Boat going on shore for Land on the Main I took the oportunity of going in her, & carrying a fowling Price, amus’d myself with shooting Birds along the Beach of which these were great Plenty. But for this I suffer’d, [end page 26]

severely in the Afternoon & on the next Day, for betwixt the burning Heat of the Sun, the Fatigue & Land Air, I was seized with a violent Head ach attended by a Fever, which did not leave me for a considerable Time. I penetrated a little into the Country, which I found cover’d with a Kind of Underwood all in Verdure, & form’d a pretty Landscape. There were Cows, and other tame Cattle; Plenty of Game, such as Hares and Partridges peculiar to the Country, Pheasants etc. but all so wild, that it was a difficult Matter to get within Gunshot of them. The Natives are of a large size, and exceedingly well limb’d, they go almost naked, & are exceedingly expert at catching Fish which they do by spearing. . On the Morning of the 13th of May we sail’d from Goree Bay forming a Fleet of seven Men of War, and thirteen Indiamen The other Ships of War, Transports etc. remain’d on the Coast intending (we imagin’d) to go against Senegal. The Coast of Africa is generally disagreeable to sailors, for squalls of wind sometimes come so very suddenly as not to give Time enough for the Sails to be taken in. Sometimes they are Accompanied with Rain, Thunder & Lightning & call’d [end page 27]

Tornados. We tho not in the proper Season for them, felt one which came on, just as we were going to hoist the Jolly Boat in, but the sudden Gust prevented our doing it, & we tow’d the Boat with two Men in her, when going surprisingly swift thro’ a great Sea … The Admiral kept very much to the Eastward, subjecting us thereby to Calm, and Rain, retarding our Passage and hazarding the Lives of our Men. But we will suppose he did to the best of his Knowledge. . On the 17th of May being then in the Latitude of 8 North. We lost one of our Quarter Masters after an Illness of a few Days
19th A Ship under danish Colours saluted the Admiral. & join’d the Fleet.
21st We saw another sail to the Eastward. The weather squally with Rain, the Inconvenience of which we particularly felt, being a deep, lumber’d Ship. The Soldiers in a bad Situation, being sadly affected by a Fever which prevail’d throughout the Ship. The Heat and Moisture of the Air made us apprehensive of its becoming malignant. The Patient was siez’d with a Pain in his Head and Back Nausea, full and quick Pulse, burning Heat on the Skin [end page 28]

and soon became delirious. The Fever generally arriv’d to its full Height in six or seven Days, leaving the Patient in a languid, and almost lifeless situation.
24th A sergeant and private of the Regulars departed this Life, the former in the state before mention’d & the latter almost suddenly. The ship was kept as clean as possible, very often smok’d, & the Beams wash’d with Vinegar.
25th The Weather continued very rough. We left the Body of the Fleet at about the Distance of 2 Leagues. . A Soldier died.
26th Another Soldier died, who had been long ill of bilious Complaints. The Weather still unsettled, excessive hot and rainy.
29th Complaints increas’d, the Boatswain several petty officers, and a great Number of the Ship’s Company excessively ill. The continued bad Weather for several Days past has scarcely left a Man in Health.
30th It began to amend. We found the Fleet reduced to thirteen Sail, Seven Men of War & Six Indiamen; the other Ships having laid hold of the Oportunity of separating, during the late bad Weather to avoid the detention always occasiond by a Number of ships sailing together. The Grafton sail’d extremely heavy, and having such a [end page 29]

A Voyage to the East Indies in the Ship Duke of Grafton

Quantity of dead Weight viz. Iron, Steel etc. in her Bottom she roll’d very deep, and return’d which such violence as carried away Masts, Yards, Rigging etc. every Day.
June 4th. We saw a sail standing to the SE. but the Admiral took no notice of her. Mrs. Brown, Widow of the late Srgt died on the 6th. She had been inconsolable ever since the Loss of her Husband. A little Orphan surviv’d but with no other Prospect than of following her Parents. The Fever had been abating for several Days, but was succeeded by a Complaint no less terrible, the Flux, with which a Number of Soldiers were seized at the same Time, & others adding hourly to them. The Ship being so much out of Trim could scarcely keep up with the Fleet, and the Men constantly employ’d in endeavouring to trim her, crowding sail etc. were terribly fatigu’d.
11th. An Old Soldier who was recovering from the late Fever, fell from the Ship’s Bow into the Sea. We were going with a fresh Breeze, but hove all a back lower’d the Boat down and pick’d him up. When he was brought on Board, every Means was tried to recover him, but in vain, tho’ we continued our Endeavors many Hours. Being so much emaciated, and weaken’d by his Disorder, he was dead [end page 30]

in all probability, almost as soon as he reach’d the water, and his Body floated like a piece of wood.
14th The little Child left by the late Mrs. Brown, departed this Life. The Flux became almost general equally severe amongst Soldiers and Sailors.
15th In the Morning we found our Main Top Mast sprung but as it would admit of repairing, The Carpenter began upon it instantly; but as soon as we could carry sail upon it, we carried away our Fore Mast. Thus situated, with few Men on board and those sick, we made a Signal to speak the Admiral, told him our Situation, and begg’d Assistance. He sent the Eagle Captn. Reddale a 64 Gunship, who put on board us, twelve good Seamen and four Carpenters; he likewise at Captn. Bull’s request took us in tow. Presently after a fresh Breeze sprang up, & the Eagle being an excellent Sailor ran with us at such a rate, that the next Morning at break of Day the Fleet were out of Sight a stern, but coming up some Time after, the Admiral made the Signal to shorten sail.
18th A Soldier died.
19th Another Soldier died. The Flux grew terrible; People continued to be every Day seized with it, & they in whom it’s Violence was a little Subsided, remain’d in a helpless [end page 31]